First, you make a roux...
We make certain choices in life, in which we try to dictate what direction our paths will lead us. Some are made out of necessity. Some are made out of desire. But many more are made on the fly, in the mad-dash improvisational game we call "living." These are the choices that we barely notice. They add up in the periphery of our perception as we blunder along forward in time like sand shifting along our paths, changing the direction behind and fore until where we started and where we end up are barely recognizable. It's the nature of age and change that we either learn to accept, adjust and move forward, or we become intransigent, resist and stagnate.
So you are probably thinking "What the hell, Bill?! What's with all this philosophical gobbledy gook and what does that have to do with Stand Up and Eat?!"
Good question.
When I started college, I was going to be a great Psychologist. My heroes were Freud, Jung, Adler and Bugs Bunny. I graduated college with a degree in Film, my heroes at the time being Scorsese, Lynch, Spielberg and Bugs Bunny. Over the next decade and a half, I hopped from restaurant gig to bar gig, never losing my love for the workings of the human mind, the power of great cinema and the genius of a certain animated rabbit. Along the way, I learned all that I could about the food and beverage world, from almost every vantage point. Then in 1994, I took a stand up comedy class. A couple years later, I'm on the road, driving around the country in a series of beat up cars, carrying on the tradition of my heroes, Carlin, Hicks, Pryor and Bugs, The meandering path. My life. A far cry from the paved highway into the future I had envisioned at 18. Even now, in my 40's, with a decade of choices behind me, I still see the path, but I realize that it is a serpentine and shifting road. "Stand Up and Eat" is another choice. I am excited to see where this will lead.
The goal is to highlight those things in life which bring me, and hopefully you, joy. Good food. Funny people. Exciting locations and shared drinks. To share the good things in life. The things that make us smile.
And now we will, quite literally, make a roux.
A roux is traditionally a thickening agent, made from equal parts fat to flour. I find it is best to use an All Purpose Unbleached flour. That's not set in stone, but it seems to create the most consistent end product, in my opinion. As for the oil, or fat, you need something with a high heat point. Butter and olive oil will scorch and leave an unpleasant flavor. Vegetable oil, lard, shortening and bacon fat are all good choices. I like to use equal parts bacon fat to vegetable oil. Because...well...bacon. Nuff said. The cookware is important as well. I find that a heavy bottomed pan or a good cast iron skillet work best. You need to be able to control the heat so as to not scorch the flour. Once that happens, the roux is ruined. An even medium to medium high temperature and constant stirring are important. If black flecks appear, or you smell a burnt scent, toss the lot and start over. Nothing ruins a good gumbo more than a shitty roux.
How long does it take to cook the proper roux? Depends. Some people like a peanut butter shade, which is less nutty and lends itself better to lighter preparations, such as Gumbo Z'herbs or a light seafood style stew. I like my roux like I like my coffee, music and soul. Dark. This will take a while and your arm will probably cramp up and back hurt from bending over a hot stove, but it is totally worth it for the rich, nutty flavor of a good dark roux. How long? I say about a six pack. In other words, time isn't as important as watching and eyeing the final product. Below are pictures of a roux I made in different stages of cooking. The best way to get good at it is just like anything else...practice. Now get to stirring!
You'll need:
1 1/2 cup oil (Veg, lard, fat...you read above, right?)
1 1/2 (plus a couple extra tablespoons) All Purpose Flour
6 12 oz beers
Open a beer and begin drinking. Heat oil in heavy bottom pan until warm but not smoking. Slowly stir in flour until it is all incorporated and makes a smooth, thick paste. Start on another beer. On medium high heat, continue to stir until roux has reached desired color, interspersing beer drinking throughout. When roux is done, remove from heat, allow to cool and put in a jar, or use immediately in whatever recipe you are still sober enough to cook. Watch getting hot roux on exposed fleshy parts. That shit is Cajun napalm.
Bubbles are moisture cooking out. Don't freak....stir....
A little color now...*cracks beer*
This is "Peanut Butter" stage. You can stop if you want. I don't. *cracks beer*
Now it's dark. *hic*
Mmm...thick, dark love. Enjoy!
And there you have it!
Eat, drink and be funny!
bd
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ReplyDeleteSeriously though, approximately how long do you cook the roux? When I make a roux I use far less oil so that it is more like a batter then cook it for a few minutes, then add my liquid - usually milk if I'm going to make a cheese sauce. It looks like you cook it for a lot longer - very interesting.
ReplyDeleteIt depends on how many times you've made a roux like this. This is a more traditional Cajun roux preparation as opposed to the traditional roux used in Mother sauces. I can usually whip one out in under 20 minutes, but in the beginning, for a roux like this, and so as not to scorch it, I'd suggest more of a medium heat and take your time...25ish minutes. I've also found, using a cast iron skillet, I can use a higher heat and alternate from a direct flame to using the residual pan heat in the process, getting the roux almost to the color and letting it finish off the flame until done, still stirring. This took a bit of practice.
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